![]() The "2 Banjo fitting compression washers" referred to on namegoeshere's link are simply the 12mm crush washers that you use for the oil drain plug. A lot of people complain about how tight that drain plug is it was no problem for me with an 18-inch long wrench. I used my torque wrench because it's got a long handle. The drain plug needs a 3/8-inch socket to remove it. I also used 17mm, 10mm and 8mm sockets, socket extensions and a 10mm spanner for that pesky third bolt. You're going to need a 17mm spanner to get that banjo bolt out. After that, it was just a matter of working at it 1/6 a turn at a time with a spanner until it came out. I found that removing the other two bolts and the banjo bolt gives you more room. People talk about the 3rd bolt on the ATF filter housing, the one on the bottom being difficult to access. I also took out the battery and tray, but I'm not sure you need to do that. Cracking open the ATF housing requires removing the air cleaner box. ![]() On the last drain and flush, I installed the new filter. I did four drains and flush and drove a few miles in between. This is cheaper than what my local dealers want for for Honda Z1 ATF. ![]() I went with the Redline D4 ATF and got 12 quarts shipped to me for $110 (look for a reseller on Amazon). Even though they charged $11 for shipping, my total price was still half of what the dealerships wanted. I ordered my parts online from because they're actually local to me, and the parts showed up quickly. I tried buying my parts (see the right-hand side of namegoeshere's link) from a couple of local dealerships, but they wanted something like $66 for them (not including the fluids!). After four drain/refills and the filter change, it's beautifully smooth again. After three drain/refills, it was better. I have a 2004 V6 at 99K miles, and my transmission has been shifting harder for at least the last 9K miles so I did the (first) ATF and filter swap this morning. I also find this post from 2007 to be helpful: The link that namegoeshere provides is excellent. The V6 has a filter that's a little tougher to get to. Most standard filters are good for one year or 12,000-15,000 miles (20,000-24,000 kilometers), but if you drive on a lot of dirt or gravel roads or live near a beach with a lot of sand in the air, then a quality performance filter with a lower micron rating and higher filtration efficiency might be the best engine air filter for your needs.The Magnefine thing is for the I4 and not the V6. Whether you install a single-use or performance filter depends on your driving habits and even the geography where you live. When it comes to choosing the air filter you need, check your vehicle owner’s manual for information on the exact type of air filter your engine requires, or you can use a parts search on the filter manufacturer’s website. It’s designed this way because the air filter has the critical task of stopping dirt, dust and harmful particles from entering your engine and threatening to cause severe damage.Ĭhoosing the right filter is crucial to getting the most protection and performance for your engine – it doesn’t matter if you’re just running errands in your old Honda Civic or packing up your Tundra for a long camping trip. Your engine air filter is specific to your engine size.
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